This week you will be exploring the photography studio. We'll try out some different lights, light modifiers, backdrops, and techniques to create unique portraits. Your group will all work in the studio this week. This will require respect, cooperation, and patience so that everyone can capture the image they want to create.
Keep it clean. The studio is a privilege that can be taken away if misused. Put things back where they belong. Everything has a home, and it is probably labeled with a sign and picture. Don't leave garbage, props, or equipment all over the place.
Use weights on the light and backdrop stands to prevent tipping.
Use extension cords responsibly, and watch for cord tripping hazards.
Don't step on the backdrop if at all possible. If you are shooting a full length photo that shows all the way to the shoes then go ahead, but try to wipe shoes off first.
If the model stands too close to the backdrop there will be a shadow. Try standing further away.
Play with angles of the light. 45 degrees off center at a 45 degree angle from overhead is common, but is not the only way.
If the batteries in the Pocket Wizard die or get low charge them. Don't leave them dead for the next person.
Don't shoot too fast. The lights need a second to recharge. You'll end up with one good photo and one all black photo.
Use reflectors to add in a small amount of light when necessary.
The studio is a place for photography, not a place to hang out. Please don't sit over there if you're not using it.
General Camera/Strobe Light Settings:
The strobe lights (the ones that flash) require that you use a set of Pocket Wizards (which are transmitter / receivers.)
Shutter speed 1/200th
ISO should be low (200 or so) and Auto ISO OFF.
F/stop will vary, but usually starts around f/5. If your photos are coming out too bright you can stop down (bigger f/number.)
The strobes should stay on lowest power. Turn the dial all the way to the left 1/32. If you turn it up higher you'll burn out the bulbs sooner, plus your models will get blasted with too much light.
The Prop light / Modeling light is the tiny switch on the strobes. It is not needed. It gets hot, so we do not want to use it. If your camera is having trouble focusing turn on half the overhead lights.
Continuous Lighting:
Continuous lighting stays on; it doesn't flash. It's not as bright as the strobe lights, so your settings will be different.
Continuous lights can be LEDs, Fluorescent, or Incandescent, though we don't have incandescent, because they get hot.
When using the ring light your subject should be very close to the light. Adjust the light temperature (color) and brightness with the remote. Don't lose the remote! The photographer's lens should be sticking through the ring.
ISO: 400+
Shutter Speed: medium ~1/80th
Aperture: wide ~f/3.5 or lower
When using the LED lights you can add a modifier, like an umbrella, to soften the light. The light will turn off temporarily when it gets warm. Just switch it off and wait a few minutes.
While we do have Fluorescent continuous lights they are quite dim, so they aren't recommended for portraits.